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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2022 14:11:45 GMT
Dulcinea has a NASA depth transducer. Originally fitted with the old Stingray spinner depth sounder I have added one of the green CRT display video sounders and the big digit digital depth. This is for the Armageddon.
I like these old electronic toys. Also have the old pre-GPS thing as obviously they will switch it back on when it all goes pear shaped.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2022 14:18:58 GMT
The Prosine has two standby modes. One uses less power. I'm not sure what the difference is but there is one. Maybe the victron is set up as if it were connected to the mains in which case consumption would not matter. I seem to recall they have a boost function for use if you are on a 6a shore power supply and need more current.. I haven't got the control panel with mine. I picked the inverter up off ebay for 50 quid. Is the standby mode set with the interface, or through jumper settings? I suppose it the jumper settings are wrong, it might explain why the fan keeps running. Its too warm in summer to wear a jumper. I think I might be in danger of Kris shouting at you again. On the 1800 you switch it on and off and on at the control panel to change the mode. It may work even without the digital display but you would not know as the announcement is made on the LCD panel.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2022 14:19:33 GMT
Dulcinea has a NASA depth transducer. Originally fitted with the old Stingray spinner depth sounder I have added one of the green CRT display video sounders and the big digit digital depth. This is for the Armageddon. I like these old electronic toys. Also have the old pre-GPS thing as obviously they will switch it back on when it all goes pear shaped. Do you mean DECCA or Loran. I seem to recall DECCA was pretty good, though short lived. My dad had one on his boat. LORAN. Got two of them but no aerial.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2022 14:23:06 GMT
It does still power loads but I don't use any large loads on it myself. I expect if you had machine with a motor it may have a delayed startup on the power save setting.
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Post by IainS on Aug 31, 2022 14:19:19 GMT
Dulcinea has a NASA depth transducer. Originally fitted with the old Stingray spinner depth sounder I have added one of the green CRT display video sounders and the big digit digital depth. This is for the Armageddon. I like these old electronic toys. Also have the old pre-GPS thing as obviously they will switch it back on when it all goes pear shaped. You mean a sextant?
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Post by kris on Sept 1, 2022 20:00:41 GMT
I might have found a solution. I don’t want to say too much until it materialises But I was wondering what would be the best voltage to charge the lithium’s at? Also would it help or hinder if I replaced the starter for a lithium?Its looking like I might have to replace the starter soon anyway. Anyway I’ll keep you posted.
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Post by kris on Sept 1, 2022 20:08:22 GMT
I guess the best voltage depends how long you will keep it at that voltage for. As Nick mentioned before 13.7V will get you to 90% plus if held for a while. so maybe 13.6v might be better I’d prefer about 80% plus. This solution should be fairly easily variable.
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 1, 2022 20:12:27 GMT
I might have found a solution. I don’t want to say too much until it materialises But I was wondering what would be the best voltage to charge the lithium’s at? Also would it help or hinder if I replaced the starter for a lithium?Its looking like I might have to replace the starter soon anyway. Anyway I’ll keep you posted. If the pack is top balanced, you can charge at up to 14.6v, however that is ramming it full. I would be more inclined to charge to around 14v which is still over 95% charged, or a bit less if you want to maximise the life of the cells. As to Li batteries for starter, it depends on what sort of Li. Bare cells can easily cope with very high currents needed for starting. However if you buy a “battery” ie a box containing some cells with a built in BMS, the BMS switch MOSFETs are the limiting factor. They can’t cope with a large surge current as taken by a starter motor.
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 1, 2022 20:18:30 GMT
I guess the best voltage depends how long you will keep it at that voltage for. As Nick mentioned before 13.7V will get you to 90% plus if held for a while. so maybe 13.6v might be better I’d prefer about 80% plus. This solution should be fairly easily variable. Problem is that because the voltage vs SoC curve is so flat until the knee is hit at over 90%, it is very difficult or in fact impossible to pick a voltage that will charge to 80%. 13.6v, which is 3.4v/cell, will get you well over 80% if held. But if you go down to 13.5v it all gets rather indeterminate. But IMO the main thing is to avoid taking the cells “up the knee” and as such 13.6 - 13.8 will be fine.
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Post by kris on Sept 1, 2022 20:24:49 GMT
I might have found a solution. I don’t want to say too much until it materialises But I was wondering what would be the best voltage to charge the lithium’s at? Also would it help or hinder if I replaced the starter for a lithium?Its looking like I might have to replace the starter soon anyway. Anyway I’ll keep you posted. If the pack is top balanced, you can charge at up to 14.6v, however that is ramming it full. I would be more inclined to charge to around 14v which is still over 95% charged, or a bit less if you want to maximise the life of the cells. As to Li batteries for starter, it depends on what sort of Li. Bare cells can easily cope with very high currents needed for starting. However if you buy a “battery” ie a box containing some cells with a built in BMS, the BMS switch MOSFETs are the limiting factor. They can’t cope with a large surge current as taken by a starter motor. I was thinking of another valence. I might even up the size of the main bank, I can fit two more in the space. I was wondering if there is an advantage to it being lithium or not in regards lithium charging set up.
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Post by kris on Sept 9, 2022 12:26:09 GMT
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Post by kris on Sept 9, 2022 13:17:46 GMT
I would think that unless you have a fully isolated /insulated alternator that the negative connection to your engine is all it needs. That’s what I was thinking, not sure what thickness though.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2022 13:19:28 GMT
I'd put a cable on anyway.
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Post by kris on Sept 9, 2022 13:21:32 GMT
I'd put a cable on anyway. yes but to where. The battery?
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Post by kris on Sept 9, 2022 13:23:55 GMT
That’s what I was thinking, not sure what thickness though. Presumably you already have one in place no? No. I’ve never spun an alternator on this boat I was ready to fit a pair before I got the lithium’s. But then the complication with lithium’s meant I didn’t fit them. So I’m wireing from scratch.
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