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Post by aquarat on Nov 20, 2016 18:07:16 GMT
Gonna whack in new burner but fretting a bit about stuff. As photo, All new surround and hearth going in so not worried about that but flue is my concern. Currently we have a Boatman coming up through a welded four inch and the new (unknown make but far larger stove) is a five inch flue. Advice needed . . . . . . Mainly on the draught issues Option 1; I run the wanted single skin 5" new cos i like the brass inspection up for the first 500mm then reduce to the 4" existing then up and out the existing collar. Option 2; I run the same single for 500mm then replace the rest in double skin up through a new collar but same, bigger hole and replace collar Option 3; i run a whole new thing straight up through new hole in roof initial thoughts please Only posted elsewhere cos i was struggling with imgur!!!!!  |
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Post by smileypete on Nov 20, 2016 18:59:19 GMT
I would not reduce to less than 5" if the stove has a 5" flue connection. 5" is 50% more area than 4"
I'd recommend 5" double skin throughout, particularly if there is a baffle, as that will impede gas flow so you want to keep the flue gases as hot as poss to make up for it.
You could run baffleless and 5" single skin if you fully understand the risks and can accept full responsibility, but I don't recommend it.
Usual caveats about 2+ CO alarms and frequent flue sweeping and checking, especially above the baffle plate.
What's the reason for the bigger stove BTW?
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 20, 2016 19:15:04 GMT
Looks like a huge stove by comparison to the other one, are you sure it isn't going to be far too hot?
Anyway as Pete says if it has a 5" exit it needs to have a 5" flue all the way. Double skinned is safer, more efficient and thus better, but of course more expensive and bulkier.
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Post by aquarat on Nov 20, 2016 19:19:51 GMT
I would not reduce to less than 5" if the stove has a 5" flue connection. 5" is 50% more area than 4" I'd recommend 5" double skin throughout, particularly if there is a baffle, as that will impede gas flow so you want to keep the flue gases as hot as poss to make up for it. You could run baffleless and 5" single skin if you fully understand the risks and can accept full responsibility, but I don't recommend it. Usual caveats about 2+ CO alarms and frequent flue sweeping and checking, especially above the baffle plate. What's the reason for the bigger stove BTW? Cheers mate, there is no flue baffle ATM, but I could put one in after the first run of single skin, then run double 5" after that. We have CO alarms coming out our ears! Sweep regular, just cos I do. The reason for changing is a few fold. The boatman struggles to stay in, we often burn all day with doors and hatch open cos we trade off the side and also cos it's a nice burner that we got cheap! |
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Post by flatdog on Nov 20, 2016 19:23:25 GMT
Looks like a huge stove by comparison to the other one, are you sure it isn't going to be far too hot? Whew, that going to chuck out some heat.. Not to mention shifting a little compensating ballast to starboard and for'ad  |
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Post by aquarat on Nov 20, 2016 19:23:58 GMT
Looks like a huge stove by comparison to the other one, are you sure it isn't going to be far too hot? Anyway as Pete says if it has a 5" exit it needs to have a 5" flue all the way. Double skinned is safer, more efficient and thus better, but of course more expensive and bulkier. Cheers mate, I pass over wisdoms to the cold blooded lizard, I mean the love of my life! |
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Post by aquarat on Nov 20, 2016 19:25:26 GMT
Looks like a huge stove by comparison to the other one, are you sure it isn't going to be far too hot? Whew, that going to chuck out some heat.. Not to mention shifting a little compensating ballast to starboard and for'ad Actually it has trimmed us just perfect! |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2016 19:31:00 GMT
Looks feekin enormous !!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2016 19:34:32 GMT
We visited some friends in a 2 up 2 down house today and they had a wood burner about that size and the whole house was warm. About 5 degrees outside. It looks nice but the output is going to be extreme. One way round that is to make the firebox smaller with bricks. I think a big stove run slowly will tend to have dirty glass quicker. Good luck with it anyway |
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Post by smileypete on Nov 20, 2016 20:12:47 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2016 20:43:36 GMT
Definitely one for a CO alarm or two (with digital readouts to give advanced warning of trouble)
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Post by aquarat on Nov 20, 2016 20:50:33 GMT
Ahh cool, got you, this does have a removable baffle but still thinking better suited for someone off boat. :-( the mrs not happy, has fallen in love with it already. Gonna have to find something even nicer to placate her! At least it saves me one panicked winter job! |
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Post by smileypete on Nov 21, 2016 17:27:23 GMT
Ahh cool, got you, this does have a removable baffle but still thinking better suited for someone off boat. :-( the mrs not happy, has fallen in love with it already. Gonna have to find something even nicer to placate her! At least it saves me one panicked winter job! I'd say that how well a stove stays in depends in part on how well the door, draught adjusters, and even casting joints, all seal to keep airflow to a minimum. If it's well sealed and the firebox can be lined with some vermiculite board it'll probably stay in better than a poorly sealed small stove. If turfing it out you could just put it on deck downwind with a makeshift flue and run a load of coal through it. If it runs like volcano then at least it'll mollify the mrs, OTOH if it purrs along or near enough it could be a goer. I s'pose if you're technically minded you could rig up a through the end of the flue plus a vacuum cleaner to provide a little vacuum and compare it to the existing. But perhaps most people prefer trial and error to to measuring stuff, well it seems that way with batteries! |
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Post by aquarat on Nov 22, 2016 9:21:03 GMT
Ahh cool, got you, this does have a removable baffle but still thinking better suited for someone off boat. :-( the mrs not happy, has fallen in love with it already. Gonna have to find something even nicer to placate her! At least it saves me one panicked winter job! I'd say that how well a stove stays in depends in part on how well the door, draught adjusters, and even casting joints, all seal to keep airflow to a minimum. If it's well sealed and the firebox can be lined with some vermiculite board it'll probably stay in better than a poorly sealed small stove. If turfing it out you could just put it on deck downwind with a makeshift flue and run a load of coal through it. If it runs like volcano then at least it'll mollify the mrs, OTOH if it purrs along or near enough it could be a goer. I s'pose if you're technically minded you could rig up a through the end of the flue plus a vacuum cleaner to provide a little vacuum and compare it to the existing. But perhaps most people prefer trial and error to to measuring stuff, well it seems that way with batteries! Not a half bad idea cheers mate, I may well do that if this bloody rain ever stops! We shall see how far away peeps can spot the flame jet out the top! :-) |
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Post by smileypete on Nov 22, 2016 12:30:31 GMT
Not a half bad idea cheers mate, I may well do that if this bloody rain ever stops! We shall see how far away peeps can spot the flame jet out the top! :-) You'll be bound to get some funny looks! But be sure to have some working CO alarms in the boat just in case some stove fumes get drawn inside somehow. |
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