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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2017 15:35:35 GMT
It's really obviously uphill to the front when mine's running low, but there's over a ton of water in it when it's full so it would be. A 1000l+ you lucky lucky sod! We have a 250l fresh tank and 70l hot in the bum that Mrs Gazza, even after all these years thinks is self replenishing! The bootline is 2" thick, top of the line = full, Bottom of the line = start looking for a tap - pronto!
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Post by lollygagger on Jan 1, 2017 15:43:18 GMT
It's really obviously uphill to the front when mine's running low, but there's over a ton of water in it when it's full so it would be. A 1000l+ you lucky lucky sod! We have a 250l fresh tank and 70l hot in the bum that Mrs Gazza, even after all these years thinks is self replenishing! The bootline is 2" thick, top of the line = full, Bottom of the line = start looking for a tap - pronto! 300 gallons and really great to have but I hope I don't develop a leak while I'm not around!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2017 17:46:18 GMT
A 1000l+ you lucky lucky sod! We have a 250l fresh tank and 70l hot in the bum that Mrs Gazza, even after all these years thinks is self replenishing! The bootline is 2" thick, top of the line = full, Bottom of the line = start looking for a tap - pronto! 300 gallons and really great to have but I hope I don't develop a leak while I'm not around! I'm naturally wired to expect the worst! If we leave the house for a weekend I shut off the gas, water, all sockets bar the fridge/freezer. On the boat every seacock and valve gets shut along with isolating the batteries and diesel feed to engine and heaters. Takes around 5 minutes to turn everything back on.
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Post by naughtyfox on Jan 1, 2017 17:50:10 GMT
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Post by Ditchcrawler on Jan 1, 2017 18:41:06 GMT
1/ turn off water 2/ take off the strainer and run pump -which is quite good at pumping air through the system 3/ open cold taps one at a time (close them afterwards) 4/ one hot taps one at a time (close them afterwards 5/ start washing machine so it starts to fill, until you hear air going through it 6/ remove shower hose from tap fitting, dangle in shower tray. 7/ open shower valve, switch between hot and cold 8/ operate toilet flush until air comes out. 9/ switch off pump. 10/ open all taps. Although the calorifier will still be full of water, you will have introduced quite a bit of air which allows for ice expansion. There is a big difference between Gazza's container on dry land, and a boat whose hull is well immersed in liquid water. This is basically what I do but I also have the calorifier bottom connected to the bath drain via a valve, so just opening that empties the calorifier as well
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2017 19:01:56 GMT
1/ turn off water 2/ take off the strainer and run pump -which is quite good at pumping air through the system 3/ open cold taps one at a time (close them afterwards) 4/ one hot taps one at a time (close them afterwards 5/ start washing machine so it starts to fill, until you hear air going through it 6/ remove shower hose from tap fitting, dangle in shower tray. 7/ open shower valve, switch between hot and cold 8/ operate toilet flush until air comes out. 9/ switch off pump. 10/ open all taps. Although the calorifier will still be full of water, you will have introduced quite a bit of air which allows for ice expansion. There is a big difference between Gazza's container on dry land, and a boat whose hull is well immersed in liquid water. This is basically what I do but I also have the calorifier bottom connected to the bath drain via a valve, so just opening that empties the calorifier as well I've added a drain to our calorifier. I totted up that I can get around half a ton out the back of the boat prior to slipping it. The cauliflower makes up 70kg of that total - every little helps said the woman as she peed in the sea. Before I fitted the drain I had to split the pipe work to drain it down. When I replumb it all I will fit a couple of drain cocks in both the hot and cold pipework to make life easier during the winter lay up.
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Post by lollygagger on Jan 1, 2017 19:14:30 GMT
Ok I'll bite. Disconnecting my pump the pipe is at floor level, where does the water go?
Draining calorifier. Same. A lot of pipes are under the floor. How to drain those?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2017 19:31:50 GMT
Ok I'll bite. Disconnecting my pump the pipe is at floor level, where does the water go? Draining calorifier. Same. A lot of pipes are under the floor. How to drain those? Shit goes downhill, water finds it's own level! Ditchcrawlers set up for the cauliflower is good as it drains into the shower tray. All our gear is in the engine hole, let it go, flick the bilge pump on JD! Not much effort to arrange for teed and valved drains to run into the bilge or shower tray for the domestic water system. Think yourself lucky you're not raw water cooled as well, the prospect of a split HX or oil cooler means you take no chances. Downside is a little more effort to put it all back together for an impromptu winter cruise - and then having to take it all to bits again before you go home!
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Post by Telemachus on Jan 1, 2017 20:15:15 GMT
Ok I'll bite. Disconnecting my pump the pipe is at floor level, where does the water go? Draining calorifier. Same. A lot of pipes are under the floor. How to drain those? I think it should be borne in mind that pipes below the floor are well below the waterline. Although it is feasible for the canal to freeze right down to the baseplate, this would be extremely unlikely in the U.K. and thus pipes under the floor rarely freeze. It is pipes higher up, above the waterline, e.g. shower valves etc, that tend to freeze first and thus are the most important to drain. Also worth bearing in mind that water freezing is not necessarily a problem it is only a problem when it freezes in a confined space especially if the vessel is a bit weak such as thermostatic shower valves. As others have said, if you really want to drain the calorifier then you can do so by means of a pipe running to the stern gland area and then pump it out with the bilge pump.
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Post by lollygagger on Jan 1, 2017 20:18:14 GMT
"The" bilge pump? Hmm, believe it or not I don't have one!
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Post by Ditchcrawler on Jan 2, 2017 18:00:39 GMT
Ok I'll bite. Disconnecting my pump the pipe is at floor level, where does the water go? Draining calorifier. Same. A lot of pipes are under the floor. How to drain those? I think it should be borne in mind that pipes below the floor are well below the waterline. Although it is feasible for the canal to freeze right down to the baseplate, this would be extremely unlikely in the U.K. and thus pipes under the floor rarely freeze. It is pipes higher up, above the waterline, e.g. shower valves etc, that tend to freeze first and thus are the most important to drain. Also worth bearing in mind that water freezing is not necessarily a problem it is only a problem when it freezes in a confined space especially if the vessel is a bit weak such as thermostatic shower valves. As others have said, if you really want to drain the calorifier then you can do so by means of a pipe running to the stern gland area and then pump it out with the bilge pump. The only frost damage I have had on the boat was a plastic elbow almost at floor level in the toilet, a short isolated piece of pipework. I didn't know it had failed until I flushed the loo on my foot.
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