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Post by lollygagger on Apr 13, 2017 13:12:47 GMT
It's going to be messy?
There must be a way to drain the system, but I read it's best to loosen the the heater element first as the water provides some strength to the flimsy tank. If I break it, it will be a hell of a job.
I'm off to get a new fibre seal and a big box spanner...
Any tips?
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Post by Gone on Apr 13, 2017 16:09:23 GMT
I just removed the immersion heater from my domestic hot tank, gave the heater head a few sharp taps with a hammer all round the nut, then the big box spanner. Came out no problems, mind I was replacing the tank, so not worried about damaging the heater boss or the top of the tank, though both were fine.
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Post by lollygagger on Apr 13, 2017 16:49:49 GMT
I see the problem now. The foam insulation has flattened over the years leaving the sticky out bit of the element resting on a beam.
Draining it down is my problem, I haven't done it before and if there's a low point to do it, it's not obvious. The whole lot is under the bed with the heater entry at the lowest point so I'd like to get most of the water out first.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2017 18:49:20 GMT
It's going to be messy? There must be a way to drain the system, but I read it's best to loosen the the heater element first as the water provides some strength to the flimsy tank. If I break it, it will be a hell of a job. I'm off to get a new fibre seal and a big box spanner... Any tips? Don't get a fibre seal. www.asap-supplies.com/hotpot-immersion-heater-o-ring-seal-518701Smear of silicone grease job done. |
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Post by JohnV on Apr 13, 2017 18:51:28 GMT
and you are dead right ...... start the loosening with the tank full ..... it stops it crumpling ...... well sometimes  |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2017 18:51:43 GMT
As for draining, can you remove the top hot water connection and syphon it out?
I've just welded a 1/2" bsp socket and fitted a drain valve to my cauliflower so can have a modicum of smugness on this subject now 😇🍺
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Post by lollygagger on Apr 13, 2017 20:41:40 GMT
It's going to be messy? There must be a way to drain the system, but I read it's best to loosen the the heater element first as the water provides some strength to the flimsy tank. If I break it, it will be a hell of a job. I'm off to get a new fibre seal and a big box spanner... Any tips? Don't get a fibre seal. www.asap-supplies.com/hotpot-immersion-heater-o-ring-seal-518701Smear of silicone grease job done. I've already got a fibre one, it'll be fine. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2017 20:53:43 GMT
I've already got a fibre one, it'll be fine. Fibre ones seem to inevitably fail, o rings don't. Top tip from my brother who is an anally retentive self employed plumbing & heating engineer along with being a sparks. Having had a few leaky immersion heaters over the years he passed this useful bit of info on to me. I have binned two fibre washers - one came with a 2 1/4" cap I've never used and one with the immersion when purchased new. Get an o ring, put it in your toolbox (it won't take up much space!) and if you get another leak you have a better solution in stock to sort the job 👍 |
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Post by Gone on Apr 14, 2017 12:01:21 GMT
You may be able to drain via the cold fill pipe. When it is all empty, a tee on the cold supply pipe where it goes imto the tank should be fitted. If you put an appliance tap (washing machine tap) on the end of the tee with a blanking cap so it wont leak you will have an easy way to drain down in future, just remove the cap, screw on a washer hose and turn on the tap.
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Post by lollygagger on Apr 14, 2017 12:43:24 GMT
You may be able to drain via the cold fill pipe. When it is all empty, a tee on the cold supply pipe where it goes imto the tank should be fitted. If you put an appliance tap (washing machine tap) on the end of the tee with a blanking cap so it wont leak you will have an easy way to drain down in future, just remove the cap, screw on a washer hose and turn on the tap. My calorifier is sitting more or less on the baseplate, the cold feed tucked round the back underneath then disappears into a maze but I'll keep looking. The previous owner used to winterize it and head for Spain, he must have drained it down somehow. A If not I might be able to pump it slowly out by removing the pressure release valve and shoving a small bore plastic pipe in the hole. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2017 10:27:41 GMT
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Post by lollygagger on Apr 15, 2017 11:01:13 GMT
I've been investigating.
Feed from pump through accumulator.
T piece with spur intended for topping up now redundant pressurised heating system that has it's own accumulator. Before that accumulator, because the connection was meant to be left disconnected it has a flexible pipe with a ball valve each end. The system end is at floor level so there I will be under the bed with a hose at floor level. Then what?
I can't help thinking if it were me I'd have had a tap to empty it into the engine bilge and pump out with a bilge pump so I'll put the bed back together and go hunting in there. The calorifier cold feed is inaccessible behind and underneath it so it could T off to the engine hole under the floor and unseen.
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Post by lollygagger on Apr 18, 2017 13:43:26 GMT
It's going to be messy? There must be a way to drain the system, but I read it's best to loosen the the heater element first as the water provides some strength to the flimsy tank. If I break it, it will be a hell of a job. I'm off to get a new fibre seal and a big box spanner... Any tips? Don't get a fibre seal. www.asap-supplies.com/hotpot-immersion-heater-o-ring-seal-518701Smear of silicone grease job done. Finding it could be one of two sizes I called the maker who tells me when I remove the element I'll either find an o'ring groove in the calorifier or a flat face. Groove = fit o-ring, flat = fit fibre seal. Also the code starts with A = 2 1/4 bsp and 27 = 270mm long. It'been in there for 29 years so this is probably all prep for tearing the calorifier trying to get it out and replacing the lot. The PO never winterised for 18 years so there is no easy way to drain it down. They either lived on board or left a small heater running. |
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Post by tonyqj on Apr 18, 2017 13:56:36 GMT
You may be able to drain via the cold fill pipe. When it is all empty, a tee on the cold supply pipe where it goes imto the tank should be fitted. If you put an appliance tap (washing machine tap) on the end of the tee with a blanking cap so it wont leak you will have an easy way to drain down in future, just remove the cap, screw on a washer hose and turn on the tap. Depends. Surecal calorifier have a NRV on the cold inlet, so it wouldn't work to try to drain it from there. |
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Post by Gone on Apr 18, 2017 14:05:13 GMT
You may be able to drain via the cold fill pipe. When it is all empty, a tee on the cold supply pipe where it goes imto the tank should be fitted. If you put an appliance tap (washing machine tap) on the end of the tee with a blanking cap so it wont leak you will have an easy way to drain down in future, just remove the cap, screw on a washer hose and turn on the tap. Depends. Surecal calorifier have a NRV on the cold inlet, so it wouldn't work to try to drain it from there. Yep, you would need to have the drain point after the nrv - which is where mine is. |
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