|
Post by faffer on Apr 20, 2017 22:28:09 GMT
Pure bollocks, you go ahead. I'm a bit confused, do you mean your pure bollocks infuse your rag with something pure that helps the gauge/pipe work better? doesnt take much to confuse you does it lol.
|
|
|
Post by Telemachus on Apr 20, 2017 22:30:47 GMT
Complete with bit of crusty spunk rag poked into the top of the pipe to stop the pump sucking air in. Hmmm, I think I prefer an electronic gauge driven by a microprocessor. So much purer. But not as accurate! Your system is a bit like smartgauge should be right but often not, whereas that bit of tube will always be right as long as it doesnt get sealed Adequately accurate. And not a repository for stagnant water that could harbour Legionnaire's etc. The tube has to be a bit sealed so as to prevent the pump pulling in air when it runs (hence the spunk rag) and anyway, how do you read it in the dark? (MCS gauge is backlit).
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Apr 20, 2017 22:49:40 GMT
But not as accurate! Your system is a bit like smartgauge should be right but often not, whereas that bit of tube will always be right as long as it doesnt get sealed Adequately accurate. And not a repository for stagnant water that could harbour Legionnaire's etc. The tube has to be a bit sealed so as to prevent the pump pulling in air when it runs (hence the spunk rag) and anyway, how do you read it in the dark? (MCS gauge is backlit). I have a luminous ball in it! But being sensible we have upwards of 3 tons of water on the boat my waterpump turns off when its low [its a high pressure 240 volt job] so I just look at pipe every day and fill up as needed
|
|
|
Post by faffer on Apr 20, 2017 23:07:46 GMT
But not as accurate! Your system is a bit like smartgauge should be right but often not, whereas that bit of tube will always be right as long as it doesnt get sealed Adequately accurate. And not a repository for stagnant water that could harbour Legionnaire's etc. The tube has to be a bit sealed so as to prevent the pump pulling in air when it runs (hence the spunk rag) and anyway, how do you read it in the dark? (MCS gauge is backlit). what a plonka you are.
|
|
|
Post by quaysider on Apr 21, 2017 5:12:11 GMT
said gauge arrived yesterday so I shall fit it on Saturday afternoon once the Bss man has departed - just in case I feck it up and have a flood... I've already installed the cabin bilge alarm and might actually fit the cabin bilge pump (currently languishing in a cupboard) before hand come to think of it.
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Apr 25, 2017 12:19:34 GMT
I've been pondering the cheap and cheerful clear pipe version. Awaiting a round tuit that I've got on order. Methinks I'll fit a tap at the end of the clear pipe, open it when I need to check the level, close it when done. It will also enable me to drain the system down easier, I've been unscrewing the top of the filter to allow pump to draw and pump air to get the water out of the low level pipework in winter.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2017 13:31:47 GMT
|
|
|
Post by JohnV on Apr 25, 2017 15:32:42 GMT
Well I have just purchased one of the MCS gauges for which Quaysider so kindly posted a link . Nice little unit, very good and comprehensive instructions ....... not cheap but looking at it, I would say that it was designed and built by an engineer who didn't know any accountants. No corners cut and supplied with a generous cable length. Although I do like simple sight tubes, in Sabina things are a trifle complicated for installing one, and I have a desperate need of a good gauge since I just had an air admittance valve on the starboard tank fail and allowed a considerable quantity of water to run into the bilge. This fault stopped the overflow on the port tank operating (as the water wasn't getting that high ...... cos it was going into the bilge) This is my normal signal to stop filling. ......... reckon I probably had at least 60 or 70 litres of water in the bilge until I started thinking it was taking too long !!! trouble is that it is trapped behind frames and is taking days to work it's way aft to the sump where I can vacuum it up. So reading quaysiders post came at the right time and it gingered me into acting
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Apr 25, 2017 15:33:36 GMT
I'll just use a push fit tee and a spare in line tap or isolation valve at the end. Great minds think alike, but no doubt one of the lesser mortals will be along in a minute claiming fools seldom differ!
|
|
|
Post by smileypete on May 3, 2017 15:27:39 GMT
On my bote the pump is fed from the pressure switch via a relay. So I put a couple of diodes (bridge rectifier with spade terminals) in the feed to the pressure switch and relay, and used the 1.2V across the diodes to drive a battery alarm clock, and time how long the pump runs. Usually get about an hour of pump runtime before the tank needs refilling, ideally I should twizzle the clock hands after doing so, but it's not a biggie if I forget. £1 for the clock from poundland or somewhere like that, had the bridge rectifier lying around spare (usually a dollar from our chinese friends via Ebay.com), plus a few bits of wire. The batt contacts in the clock aren't the easiest to solder but a spot of plumbers flux works wonders if there's an old worn out soldering bit that can be used. Or just take the clock apart and tap inside somewhere. Yeah it does drop the voltage at the relay coil to ~11V or so but the relay copes fine with that...
|
|