|
|
Post by sandk on Aug 31, 2017 14:54:26 GMT
Not a boat.....
I'm going to be living/working away in my campervan over the winter months, so want to get solar installed, i realise it is next door to useless in winter but it must be better than not having it?
I can pull onto the work site when needed and hook up to the mains electric to charge batteries and empty toilet etc, but I'd like to spend some nights out and about. I won't be travelling far so the batteries are going to get battered?
at the moment my van only has one leisure battery, there is room to add two more though. I've had a look on the interweb and can fit 3 250 panels on the roof...... After this I'm pretty much "in the dark", did you see what I did there?
how do I work out what sort/size of inverter/charger I need? What make/ah batteries do I buy?
I won't be using any power during the day but do want to charge phone, iPad, run fridge (can do this on gas if needs be). I've got a 12v tv but very rarely use it, I'm more of a radio sort of bloke.
Any advice would be great.
|
|
|
|
Post by Telemachus on Aug 31, 2017 15:00:45 GMT
First the easy one. You will have to run the fridge on gas unless you are actually motoring. 3 way absorption fridges are not really designed to run well on 12 v, they take a lot of energy and you solar won't anywhere near keep up with it.
You mention inverter/charger but it's not clear what you need this for. Did you mean a solar controller? Most camper vans already have a built in charger, and there doesn't seem to be anything on your list that requires mains power. For phones and iPad, I'd consider installing hard-wired 12v to USB sockets.
|
|
|
|
Post by sandk on Aug 31, 2017 15:18:33 GMT
My error, yes controller is what I meant, can you tell I don't know what I'm on about?, that's why I'm asking.
There is a charger, I wasn't sure if it will "do the job" if I add more batteries though.?
It's a job I will get done by a caravan company, I just want a rough idea of what I should be asking for.
Mains power wise I'm thinking of getting one of those twin tub washing machines, there is a microwave oven fitted but I only use it for the odd jacket spud, I could easily do without it.
|
|
|
|
Post by Telemachus on Aug 31, 2017 15:35:16 GMT
You need to decide which type and how many solar panels you want, before deciding on the controller. Armed with the max open circuit panel voltage and max power current you can decide how to connect them. Probably best for winter output is to wire the panels in series and use an MPPT controller, upside is that this makes the best of poor winter conditions. Downside is it's a more expensive controller and it will suffer if any of the panels are shaded. If you wire the panels in parallel you can use a cheaper controller but you will get less output. I got this cheapo inverter for my caravan, but it works ok and runs my microwave (but hammers the battery, of course): www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1500W-Pure-sine-wave-power-inverter-DC-12V-TO-AC-240V-with-LCD-Display-UK-socket-/322166634839?hash=item4b02a0b957Caravan chargers tend to be single-stage chargers with fairly low current output. They will charge your batteries. Eventually! So if your time on "shore power" is limited, a seperate charger could be a good idea. Current rating around 10-15% of the total battery AH, if you can afford it. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2017 15:51:04 GMT
Nick is a little incorrect about 3 way fridges on 12v not working well.
They work extremely well as they are not thermostatically controlled on 12vv - ours makes ice on the element just the same as it does on gas and 240v, it's 100w flat out - the 240v element is also 100w but thermostatically controlled, and obviously draws bugger all when on 240v AC compared to the hammering the batteries get on 12vv DC.
The trick with 3 way fridges is to power 12v DC via a relay energised by the ignition switch, that way you can't inadvertently flatten your batteries if the engine isn't running.
If stationary and no 240v hook up is available gas is the only way to run a 3 way fridge, they don't use much gas tbh around 8 grams an hour.
They only thing you have to remember with an older 3 way is to turn the gas off if running on either 12v DV or 240v AC,they normal do not have an interlock between each heat source so you could end up giving it at least twice the welly it should have!
|
|
|
|
Post by Telemachus on Aug 31, 2017 16:25:53 GMT
Nick is a little incorrect about 3 way fridges on 12v not working well. They work extremely well as they are not thermostatically controlled on 12vv - ours makes ice on the element just the same as it does on gas and 240v, it's 100w flat out - the 240v element is also 100w but thermostatically controlled, and obviously draws bugger all when on 240v AC compared to the hammering the batteries get on 12vv DC. The trick with 3 way fridges is to power 12v DC via a relay energised by the ignition switch, that way you can't inadvertently flatten your batteries if the engine isn't running. If stationary and no 240v hook up is available gas is the only way to run a 3 way fridge, they don't use much gas tbh around 8 grams an hour. They only thing you have to remember with an older 3 way is to turn the gas off if running on either 12v DV or 240v AC,they normal do not have an interlock between each heat source so you could end up giving it at least twice the welly it should have! By "not working well" I meant in the great scheme of things. Yes they work fine, but drain the batteries rapidly. And once the batteries are flat, they don't work fine! And, depending on ambient temperature, everything in the fridge may freeze. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2017 16:34:44 GMT
Nick is a little incorrect about 3 way fridges on 12v not working well. They work extremely well as they are not thermostatically controlled on 12vv - ours makes ice on the element just the same as it does on gas and 240v, it's 100w flat out - the 240v element is also 100w but thermostatically controlled, and obviously draws bugger all when on 240v AC compared to the hammering the batteries get on 12vv DC. The trick with 3 way fridges is to power 12v DC via a relay energised by the ignition switch, that way you can't inadvertently flatten your batteries if the engine isn't running. If stationary and no 240v hook up is available gas is the only way to run a 3 way fridge, they don't use much gas tbh around 8 grams an hour. They only thing you have to remember with an older 3 way is to turn the gas off if running on either 12v DV or 240v AC,they normal do not have an interlock between each heat source so you could end up giving it at least twice the welly it should have! By "not working well" I meant in the great scheme of things. Yes they work fine, but drain the batteries rapidly. And once the batteries are flat, they don't work fine! And, depending on ambient temperature, everything in the fridge may freeze. Mines never been good enough to freeze, well, not beer which is what's mostly in there and has a lower freezing point than water or perishables anyway 🍻⚓🚢👍 |
|
|
|
Post by sandk on Aug 31, 2017 16:43:00 GMT
No need for a row fellas.....
How do I decide on what panels I need? Money isn't a problem, within reason.
What sort of money would I need to get it fitted by someone that knows what they are doing?
Is there anyone around this parish that does solar on boats that might be able to help?
I can travel to their mooring/workplace.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2017 16:48:24 GMT
No need for a row fellas..... How do I decide on what panels I need? Money isn't a problem, within reason. What sort of money would I need to get it fitted by someone that knows what they are doing? Is there anyone around this parish that does solar on boats that might be able to help? I can travel to their mooring/workplace. It's not a row, we are actually pretty much in agreement 👍 |
|
|
|
Post by Telemachus on Aug 31, 2017 16:54:52 GMT
No need for a row fellas..... How do I decide on what panels I need? Money isn't a problem, within reason. What sort of money would I need to get it fitted by someone that knows what they are doing? Is there anyone around this parish that does solar on boats that might be able to help? I can travel to their mooring/workplace. No row, just clearing up a miscommunication. types of panel: monocrystalline, polycrystalline, amorphic. Monocrystaline gives the best energy density, and since your space is limited that's what I'd go for. Then it comes down to physical shape. Get 3 identical panels that will fit, Not too close to the edge, they have to be able to tolerate road speeds+ wind. the person I'd recommend is Matty40s on CWDF. |
|
|
|
Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 1, 2017 11:47:35 GMT
My little bit of advice, assuming you're going to run your fridge on gas, is to stick to one leisure battery. I only have one on my boat, using around 25AH per day. There's no need for more than 1. If you have 2, it simply means that when they die, as they will, it will cost twice as much, and you'll have twice the amount of lugging round and installing nasty heavy things.
|
|
