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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2018 17:41:24 GMT
So I am going to fit a Refleks 66m in a steel boat and I will be using 70mm stainless tube for the flue. Single wall (1.5mm thick). I've not dealt with this sort of diesel heater before and from what I read they like to have insulated flues. So would it perhaps be worth lagging the internal section of flue (about 4ft6 long) with exhaust lagging? Would that help it draw better?
The external part will just be the stainless tube so maybe its not worth it ?
Any advantages or disadvantages? I suppose it stops the flue from providing heat but this is just background heating not the primary heating system so it does not need to have a great deal of output.
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Post by phoenix on Feb 20, 2018 22:31:27 GMT
I think you have made a good choice very few bits to go wrong unlike the other types, It will smell of diesel though. Ours used to draw OK uninsulated we had a H shaped cowl on top to help draw. But the chimney will get rather hot which is good for heating the boat but not good if children touch it! the glass fibre lagging like they sell at Uxbridge would do but you would loose some of the heating effect if you could fabricate some sort of mesh that would be best.
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Post by phil70 on Feb 21, 2018 1:06:09 GMT
Our Glembring that we had in our last boat also had an H cowl(also known as a downdraft diverter) and also had a stainless flue.
No problem with it drawing even though not lagged.
As part of the original installation I fitted a rather smart heat shield which prevented hands and other body parts from touching the hot flue. Oh and ours never smelt of diesel
Phil
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2018 7:20:21 GMT
Thanks for the advice  Its actually going to be installed in such a way that it is not accessible. a space where there was a washing machine. i'm planning to cut out an aluminium beer barrel to create a semi circular heat shield around the heater itself then it will be fitted in under the worktop in the gally the flue will go through the worktop using an aluminium plate then through the top of the boat using a pair of stainless steel exhaust repair flanges. This - pipe will go through these padded out and sealed with lagging and high temp silicone. £25 seems better value than the refleks deck fittings which are stupidly expensive...  This way the flue can just be taken off and stored for summer. I intend to have a stub welded into the cabin top at some point if its the right place and successful otherwise I'll just put a mushroom vent there. I suppose perforated exhaust pipe might be worth using for an insulating shield for the flue exposed in the galley area. This stuff is available in 89mm. Flue is 70mm so that would clip over with 10mm all round if suitable spacers were used. Might be OK ?  |
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Post by peterboat on Feb 21, 2018 8:37:20 GMT
My bubble stove has no smell of diesel if it does something is wrong.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2018 9:46:05 GMT
I'd got a 90mm diesel heater flue terminal which I bought for £5 secondhand from a boatyard. Its in perfectly good order but will need to be adapted to 70mm. Ideally I'd like an H chimney but am allergic to the silly prices. Hoping I can clamp the 90mm cowl by wrapping lagging around the top of the 70mm tube then slot the 90mm pipe and use jubilee clips or t bolt clamps to hold the terminal on. Might not work but worth a try. This (the bigger one)  |
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Post by brummieboy on Feb 21, 2018 13:51:02 GMT
On my Bubble, the inside flue (4" steel) is not lagged, and the flue helps with heat radiation. The outside flue consists of a 2ft 4" S/steel pipe inside a standard 6" narrowboat chimney. The space inbetween is insulated which has the effect of lengthening the flue as the outside is kept warm. The whole assembly is capped off with a Swedish cowl, similar to a Vedette to minimise down draughts.
I get no diesel smell inside the boat unless something is wrong.
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Post by bargemast on Feb 21, 2018 19:19:46 GMT
So I am going to fit a Refleks 66m in a steel boat and I will be using 70mm stainless tube for the flue. Single wall (1.5mm thick). I've not dealt with this sort of diesel heater before and from what I read they like to have insulated flues. So would it perhaps be worth lagging the internal section of flue (about 4ft6 long) with exhaust lagging? Would that help it draw better? The external part will just be the stainless tube so maybe its not worth it ? Any advantages or disadvantages? I suppose it stops the flue from providing heat but this is just background heating not the primary heating system so it does not need to have a great deal of output. You don't want to lagg the internal section of the flue as that heat will be too useful inside, but making a double walled chimney on the outside would be a better idea, as the outside chimney won't cool off as quick and will give you a better draft. Peter. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2018 19:32:23 GMT
Yes. I see that now.
I think I can do a double wall externl part as I will extend the 70mm pipe up through the exhaust flange through deck fitting I pictured. That fitting has a 77mm pipe so probably about 80mm external so I could possibly put lagging around the 70mm then slip a thicker pipe over it effectively forming a double wall external flue. This might even be a way to adapt to the 90mm anti downdraught cowl I already have. It would all want to be removable in case of low bridges but I know the height of most of the bridges I come across in winter so it does not need to be taken down very often.
If a double wall external flue means a shorter flue is feasible then its definitely a good idea.
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