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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2018 20:26:10 GMT
You've not perchance pissed anyone off to the extent they've slipped a gallon of petrol in your tank? I know how much you like cars... The Astra was either the best or worst car to choose for this test depending on what you set out to prove. I had an Isuzu engined Astra that would run on anything oily - used or new.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2018 20:29:19 GMT
As well as a possible fuel or compression issues, it could be an air blockage....have you tried removing the air filter?
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Post by peterboat on Jun 25, 2018 20:30:35 GMT
You've not perchance pissed anyone off to the extent they've slipped a gallon of petrol in your tank? I know how much you like cars... I put diesel in my Marlin Hunter the other week 9 litres I filled it with petrol it ran not bad a bit flat but pinked like a bugger! Ran it for two hundred miles refilled it with 99 octain petrol and its fine later this week we see how fine on it MOT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2018 20:34:28 GMT
I know how much you like cars... The Astra was either the best or worst car to choose for this test depending on what you set out to prove. I had an Isuzu engined Astra that would run on anything oily - used or new. You’d think an older boat engine would be just as forgiving. Mine will run on used engine oil...apparently...
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Post by Andyberg on Jun 25, 2018 20:56:09 GMT
Andy how did it start before this issue? Did it fire up easily, on both cylinders straight away? Or did it cough and shudder into life with lots of white smoke (firing on one cylinder first, before sufficient rpm to get the second one firing). Seems almost certainly low compression and my thinking is that one cylinder could already have been low on compression with it starting on the other one, and now the other one has a problem (stuck valve or whatever) hence the no-starting. Or Tantrum Tony's theory about timing slippage I suppose. Started up perfect on the button as usual, very little turning over mebbee 2 seconds before it fires up, was running perfect! Id estimate a steady maybe 800-1000rpm slow chug for a mile or so, no smoke, noises or explosions!
Slowed down to pull in for a swing bridge and my pal commented on how slow running it was on tickover, I turned the speedwheel to increase revs which it did for half a second then just conked out.. The rest is history!
Towed it back and that video was taken today, no change from yesterday!
I'm leaving it til weekend before I have a good look due to my work commitments but I'm 99% sure it isn't a compression issue from the sound of it turning over (I could be wrong!!) Im inclined to go with Tony on the slipped timing theory!
Engine isn't an old worn out POS, its only done c450 hours!!
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Post by naughtyfox on Jun 25, 2018 21:56:31 GMT
As you know, I can't help at all You could buy him a new engine.
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Post by naughtyfox on Jun 25, 2018 22:10:03 GMT
Meanwhile........back at andy's problem....... Rog Personally I'd check for contaminated fuel in the first instance by rigging up a temporary gravity fed tank and bleeding through, followed closely by a compression test. If compression is down then the cylinder head will have to be removed to ascertain whether it is a problem with an exhaust valve or the piston rings. If it is the former then it will need new valves, if it is the latter then depending on what the problem is it *might* be possible to fix it without further disassembly. I'd just stick a new (2?) injectors in for starters, or take the old 2 to be tested. Why start with the complicated shit? First things first.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Jun 25, 2018 22:14:36 GMT
Personally I'd check for contaminated fuel in the first instance by rigging up a temporary gravity fed tank and bleeding through, followed closely by a compression test. If compression is down then the cylinder head will have to be removed to ascertain whether it is a problem with an exhaust valve or the piston rings. If it is the former then it will need new valves, if it is the latter then depending on what the problem is it *might* be possible to fix it without further disassembly. I'd just stick a new (2?) injectors in for starters, or take the old 2 to be tested. Why start with the complicated shit? First things first. <iframe width="23.700000000000045" height="5.840000000000003" style="position: absolute; width: 23.7px; height: 5.84px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 14px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_20922369" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="23.700000000000045" height="5.840000000000003" style="position: absolute; width: 23.7px; height: 5.84px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1125px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_69292874" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="23.700000000000045" height="5.840000000000003" style="position: absolute; width: 23.7px; height: 5.84px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 14px; top: 230px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_53725324" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="23.700000000000045" height="5.840000000000003" style="position: absolute; width: 23.7px; height: 5.84px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1125px; top: 230px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_72657833" scrolling="no"></iframe> Jerry-rigging a known clean source of fuel and doing a compression test are both less complicated (and less costly) than replacing injectors.
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Post by naughtyfox on Jun 25, 2018 22:16:40 GMT
I know how much you like cars... I put diesel in my Marlin Hunter the other week... ZZZzzz.... stick to the subject, Peter.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Jun 26, 2018 7:01:11 GMT
Personally I'd check for contaminated fuel in the first instance by rigging up a temporary gravity fed tank and bleeding through, followed closely by a compression test. If compression is down then the cylinder head will have to be removed to ascertain whether it is a problem with an exhaust valve or the piston rings. If it is the former then it will need new valves, if it is the latter then depending on what the problem is it *might* be possible to fix it without further disassembly. I'd just stick a new (2?) injectors in for starters, or take the old 2 to be tested. Why start with the complicated shit? First things first. There's nothing wrong with Andy's injectors. That video clip he put up with his first post is very useful and informative, . . if you know what to look and listen for. The Ruston YDA series engines all have big heavy flywheels, and yet when the starter button was released in the video clip all the momentum in that flywheel would only take it over TDC on one compression before it bounced back off the compression in the second cylinder. That tells you that the compression on both cylinders is plenty good enough for the engine to light-up in the sort of temperatures we've got at the moment. Also, whilst the engine was turning over on the starter both injectors could be heard, very distinctly, and making just the right noises. The distintive "creak" from each injector as each cylinder went over TDC on the firing stroke speaks volumes as to the condition of the injector nozzles and how good a job they're doing of 'atomising' the fuel that's being sprayed into each cylinder at cranking speeds. Duff injectors don't sound like those do.
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Post by naughtyfox on Jun 26, 2018 7:07:30 GMT
I'm never one to ignore the more knowledgeable. Now we can forget the injectors. There aren't many things things left that it can be now. Getting there...
I'm interested to know exactly what the problem/failing is.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Jun 26, 2018 7:18:58 GMT
I'd just stick a new (2?) injectors in for starters, or take the old 2 to be tested. Why start with the complicated shit? Fir ight="5.840000000000003" style="position: absolute; width: 23.7px; height: 5.84px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1125px; top: 230px;" id="MoatPxIOPT0_72657833" scrolling="no"></iframe>Jerry-rigging a known clean source of fuel and doing a compression test are both less complicated (and less costly) than replacing injectors. Only a complete fucking idiot like you would go through all that amount of farting about just to check whether or not there's any water in the fuel, . . and it obviously hasn't occurred to you that a compression test, or a 'leak-down' test, on a direct injection diesel engine, can't be done without first removing the injectors so the compression tester adaptor can be installed in each injector hole in turn. Presumably, having taken the injectors out to do a compression test, you would then put the same ones back in without testing them either on the engine itself, or on an injector test-rig. Don't give up the day job just yet ! NB. I assume that "jerry-rigging" is your self-descriptive version/adaptation of the phrase "jury-rigging", . . "jerry" being, in your useage, 'jerry' as in ''a piss-pot'' ?
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Post by Mr Stabby on Jun 26, 2018 7:53:33 GMT
Jerry-rigging a known clean source of fuel and doing a compression test are both less complicated (and less costly) than replacing injectors. NB. I assume that "jerry-rigging" is your self-descriptive version/adaptation of the phrase "jury-rigging", . . "jerry" being, in your useage, 'jerry' as in ''a piss-pot'' ? So English Language is another subject which isn't one of your strong points? NetLingo The Internet Dictionary jerry-rig To create or fix something in an unconventional way, just so it works for the time being.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2018 8:18:46 GMT
The big ends have gone.
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Post by Telemachus on Jun 26, 2018 8:39:40 GMT
Where, on holiday? Well I suppose it is the season.
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