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Post by TonyDunkley on Jun 26, 2018 8:55:46 GMT
Andy how did it start before this issue? Did it fire up easily, on both cylinders straight away? Or did it cough and shudder into life with lots of white smoke (firing on one cylinder first, before sufficient rpm to get the second one firing). Seems almost certainly low compression and my thinking is that one cylinder could already have been low on compression with it starting on the other one, and now the other one has a problem (stuck valve or whatever) hence the no-starting. Or Tantrum Tony's theory about timing slippage I suppose. Started up perfect on the button as usual, very little turning over mebbee 2 seconds before it fires up, was running perfect! Id estimate a steady maybe 800-1000rpm slow chug for a mile or so, no smoke, noises or explosions!
Slowed down to pull in for a swing bridge and my pal commented on how slow running it was on tickover, I turned the speedwheel to increase revs which it did for half a second then just conked out.. The rest is history!
Towed it back and that video was taken today, no change from yesterday!
I'm leaving it til weekend before I have a good look due to my work commitments but I'm 99% sure it isn't a compression issue from the sound of it turning over (I could be wrong!!) Im inclined to go with Tony on the slipped timing theory!
Engine isn't an old worn out POS, its only done c450 hours!!
It's a very long time since I last worked on any Ruston YDA's, around 1967-8 at a guess, and they were mostly either 3's or 6's, so can you confirm that the twin you've got is of a similar layout but with a two element in-line injection pump with an integral cambox bolted to the timing case backplate, and controlled off an engine mounted governor in the timing case, which itself was at the same end of the engine as the flywheel, and located between the crankcase and the rear face of the exposed flywheel ? If I remember right the whole YDA range consisted of Mk1 and Mk2 engines with some slight differences in design and layout. The way in which your engine lost revs and died certainly doesn't sound like mucky fuel is anything to do with it, and the unburned fuel smoke you were getting up the pipe in the video really rules out a broken, detached or weak governor spring. I must confess to not being entirely sure at the moment as to whether the pump timing adjustment is external with slotted holes and marks on the timing case and pump body, or internal with an adjustable hub on the the injection pump drive gear, . . . as I said, it was a long time ago, but one thing I am pretty sure of is that the injection timing was set by spill cut-off, which would favour the latter (internal) method for adjustment.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2018 9:12:11 GMT
, no smoke, noises or explosions!
Definitely some issues
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Post by naughtyfox on Jun 26, 2018 9:12:59 GMT
Blimey. At this rate Andy may just as well phone to Mystic Meg of the Daily Express for her clairvoyant analysis of what's wrong with his engine.
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Post by naughtyfox on Jun 26, 2018 9:17:10 GMT
Governor bearings worn down to nothing and popped out of their sockets/cages? That could stop an engine dead. Just a thought. There's no such thing as a bad thought, all avenues until you can close them.
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Post by naughtyfox on Jun 26, 2018 9:20:01 GMT
Are there no Ruston experts in the whole country? I reckon changing the engine oil more often would have avoided this issue entirely.
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Post by Andyberg on Jun 26, 2018 12:16:40 GMT
Started up perfect on the button as usual, very little turning over mebbee 2 seconds before it fires up, was running perfect! Id estimate a steady maybe 800-1000rpm slow chug for a mile or so, no smoke, noises or explosions!
Slowed down to pull in for a swing bridge and my pal commented on how slow running it was on tickover, I turned the speedwheel to increase revs which it did for half a second then just conked out.. The rest is history!
Towed it back and that video was taken today, no change from yesterday!
I'm leaving it til weekend before I have a good look due to my work commitments but I'm 99% sure it isn't a compression issue from the sound of it turning over (I could be wrong!!) Im inclined to go with Tony on the slipped timing theory!
Engine isn't an old worn out POS, its only done c450 hours!!
It's a very long time since I last worked on any Ruston YDA's, around 1967-8 at a guess, and they were mostly either 3's or 6's, so can you confirm that the twin you've got is of a similar layout but with a two element in-line injection pump with an integral cambox bolted to the timing case backplate, and controlled off an engine mounted governor in the timing case, which itself was at the same end of the engine as the flywheel, and located between the crankcase and the rear face of the exposed flywheel ? If I remember right the whole YDA range consisted of Mk1 and Mk2 engines with some slight differences in design and layout. The way in which your engine lost revs and died certainly doesn't sound like mucky fuel is anything to do with it, and the unburned fuel smoke you were getting up the pipe in the video really rules out a broken, detached or weak governor spring. I must confess to not being entirely sure at the moment as to whether the pump timing adjustment is external with slotted holes and marks on the timing case and pump body, or internal with an adjustable hub on the the injection pump drive gear, . . . as I said, it was a long time ago, but one thing I am pretty sure of is that the injection timing was set by spill cut-off, which would favour the latter (internal) method for adjustment. Cheers for the help...im not seeing any external timing marks.. Special Panoramic 'bendy' view for Rog / Pattyπ
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Post by Andyberg on Jun 26, 2018 12:18:04 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2018 13:52:52 GMT
Looks like scrap to me.
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Post by Jim on Jun 26, 2018 14:52:12 GMT
Last time I was in Tarleton there was an expert mechanic, he was selling fancy underwear on the street. "Fancy pants for your Mrs. Sir, Diesel Fitter".
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Post by Telemachus on Jun 26, 2018 15:35:28 GMT
gerrrroan
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2018 16:55:49 GMT
Last time I was in Tarleton there was an expert mechanic, he was selling fancy underwear on the street. "Fancy pants for your Mrs. Sir, Diesel Fitter". naughtyfoxJimbo did a terrible funny
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Post by Mr Stabby on Jun 26, 2018 18:17:48 GMT
Out of interest, when were the fuel filters last changed?
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Post by Andyberg on Jun 26, 2018 18:19:12 GMT
Out of interest, when were the fuel filters last changed? about a month ago, both primary and engine filters changed, done a good 15 hours cruising up the locks to Burscough / Parbold etc and back down to Marina again since they were both done. Diesels pumping right thro filters /diesel pump and to the injector bodies. π
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Post by TonyDunkley on Jun 26, 2018 18:37:10 GMT
It's a very long time since I last worked on any Ruston YDA's, around 1967-8 at a guess, and they were mostly either 3's or 6's, so can you confirm that the twin you've got is of a similar layout but with a two element in-line injection pump with an integral cambox bolted to the timing case backplate, and controlled off an engine mounted governor in the timing case, which itself was at the same end of the engine as the flywheel, and located between the crankcase and the rear face of the exposed flywheel ? If I remember right the whole YDA range consisted of Mk1 and Mk2 engines with some slight differences in design and layout. The way in which your engine lost revs and died certainly doesn't sound like mucky fuel is anything to do with it, and the unburned fuel smoke you were getting up the pipe in the video really rules out a broken, detached or weak governor spring. I must confess to not being entirely sure at the moment as to whether the pump timing adjustment is external with slotted holes and marks on the timing case and pump body, or internal with an adjustable hub on the the injection pump drive gear, . . . as I said, it was a long time ago, but one thing I am pretty sure of is that the injection timing was set by spill cut-off, which would favour the latter (internal) method for adjustment. Cheers for the help...im not seeing any external timing marks.. Those photo's are just what was needed, Andy, . . . couldn't be better. They've filled in my memory gaps, and everything you're going to need to get at or use for checking if the timing is out, and re-setting if necessary, is all there, . . right down to the open flywheel and the flywheel TDC pointer. Setting the injection timing by spill cut-off is no more than a few minutes work on these engines, and checking to see if it is out by much takes even less time, because everything you need to get at or undo is external and readily accessible, . . unlike the Lister 'S' and 'H' series engines which have everything internal and inaccessible. When you're ready to do the job, give me a call on 07553 294325 the day before to arrange a time that suits both of us, and then I can talk you through everything on the phone while you're doing the job next day. You'll need a jam jar or an empty tin, a bit of chalk/felt tip pen or Tippex, and a few tools to fit the injector pipes, delivery valve holders, the pump drive cover plate on the timing case, and the rocker covers.
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Post by Andyberg on Jun 26, 2018 18:40:12 GMT
Cheers for the help...im not seeing any external timing marks.. Those photo's are just what was needed, Andy, . . . couldn't be better. They've filled in my memory gaps, and everything you're going to need to get at or use for checking if the timing is out, and re-setting if necessary, is all there, . . right down to the open flywheel and the flywheel TDC pointer. Setting the injection timing by spill cut-off is no more than a few minutes work on these engines, and checking to see if it is out by much takes even less time, because everything you need to get at or undo is external and readily accessible, . . unlike the Lister 'S' and 'H' series engines which have everything internal and inaccessible. When you're ready to do the job, give me a call on 07553 294325 the day before to arrange a time that suits both of us, and then I can talk you through everything on the phone while you're doing the job next day. You'll need a jam jar or an empty tin, a bit of chalk/felt tip pen or Tippex, and a few tools to fit the injector pipes, delivery valve holders, the pump drive cover plate on the timing case, and the rocker covers. You sir...Are a gentleman!
By no visible marks, I was meaning on the pump itself.. I've see a little window / line marking setup on a modern-ish diesel motor in the past to line up timing etc, but this CEV punp has nothing like that. TDC etc is clear on the flywheel.... I'm looking forward to learning something new that I've never done before & hopefully fixing the old girl!
I'll give you a bell at end of week as Im on nights til Friday but whenever suits you I'll fit in with!
Thanks, your help is appreciated!
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