|
Post by Aloysius on Feb 13, 2024 20:17:47 GMT
On the upside, the 'bit shit' factor was on that occasion comfortably dealt with.
The airhorn is quite impressive though. 😁
|
|
|
Post by on Feb 13, 2024 20:25:15 GMT
I always dreamed of doing terrible bodges which actually work very well.
I suppose achieving full output from a train horn by connecting it to a fire extinguisher which is recharged by a 12v tyre pump connected to the valve on the neck is a bodge. These horns need loads if air. That is the idea. Vane compressors are too girly.
Yes it is a bodge and unscrewing the pressure gauge to be replaced with a 100psi threaded pressure switch wired to the tyee pump is also a bodge but it means one gets a self recharging high pressure air vessel.
It works.
Bodge is alright with me
|
|
|
Post by Tony Dunkley on Feb 13, 2024 21:48:05 GMT
If it is fuel, then one would expect the engine to spin as fast as it ever did on the starter, but just not fire. However, prolonged spinning will deplete the battery a lot more than a typical engine start. So it is a question of how fast it spins on the starter compared with a similar engine on another boat with a serviceable battery. Thanks for the info about the charger. I am sure a Sterling battery charger will be a smart one, so it will drop to around 13.6ish volts when it thinks the battery is fully charged. That means it is at 14.1V, the charger thinks it is still not charged, but even so I think it should still start easily enough. The good sound advice, and the information, provided by Tony Brooks in his answers to the questions asked in this thread, however clear and correct his replies are, will almost certainly be completely lost on the mindless arsewipe at which the replies are directed. The engine in question is a Ruston 3YWA ex-generator engine - originally one of the auxiliaries in the BWB lower Trent (Dredgings) Discharger "TRENDIS", and it certainly WAS in good order when first installed botched into A41 [aka Medlock] the leaking, concrete-filled, and in reality, uninsurable wreck that the vacuous irresponsible owner is so stupidly proud of. The kindest, most generous way the entire installation can be described is that it's an unreliable cobbled-up mess that propels the boat at around the same sort of speed that's achievable by a ruptured duck, all whilst shaking itself to bits and destroying itself a little more every time it runs. The permanently overloaded engine - prop matched for a 3:1 Reduction ratio, but running through a badly misaligned free-standing 2:1 reduction PRM box that gets through drive plates in a matter of only a few hours of use - never achieves anywhere near full rated rpm, bounces around on its flimsy inadequate mountings almost as if it isn't bolted down at all, and produces clouds of black smoke underway. There are other problems/latent defects with the engine itself - the most serious being the loose crankshaft drive-end extension - but I've neither the time, nor the inclincation, to list the other faults/defects or to advise on the attention needed to prevent the inevitable consequences of continuing to ignore any or all of them, . . particularly the loose crankshaft drive-end extension, the significance and effect of which will be immediately apparent to any competent engineer familar with the Ruston 3YWA. Given that it's in the hands of one of the most objectionable, ungrateful, stupid and inept specimens it's ever been my misfortune to encounter, and the overall state of the engine and installation, . . NOT starting/running is probably the best way to leave it.
|
|
|
Post by Aloysius on Feb 13, 2024 22:03:11 GMT
I always dreamed of doing terrible bodges which actually work very well. I suppose achieving full output from a train horn by connecting it to a fire extinguisher which is recharged by a 12v tyre pump connected to the valve on the neck is a bodge. These horns need loads if air. That is the idea. Vane compressors are too girly. Yes it is a bodge and unscrewing the pressure gauge to be replaced with a 100psi threaded pressure switch wired to the tyee pump is also a bodge but it means one gets a self recharging high pressure air vessel. It works. Bodge is alright with me I'd bet good money the wonderbatteries are unsecured 😂
|
|
|
Post by Aloysius on Feb 13, 2024 22:21:00 GMT
If it is fuel, then one would expect the engine to spin as fast as it ever did on the starter, but just not fire. However, prolonged spinning will deplete the battery a lot more than a typical engine start. So it is a question of how fast it spins on the starter compared with a similar engine on another boat with a serviceable battery. Thanks for the info about the charger. I am sure a Sterling battery charger will be a smart one, so it will drop to around 13.6ish volts when it thinks the battery is fully charged. That means it is at 14.1V, the charger thinks it is still not charged, but even so I think it should still start easily enough. The kindest, most generous way the entire installation can be described is... You see, this is the sort of comment which leaves most people hoping you have a terminal episode at the earliest juncture and which will be widely and gleefully reported when it occurs. It's not a good look.
|
|
|
Post by kris on Feb 14, 2024 13:27:52 GMT
So dropped the filter, no sign of bug or this so called “sticky diesel.”Apparently it turns the diesel yellowish and you see lumpy bits where the veg oil congeals.”Fuel running from tank to filter no bother. The engine started and ran, then stopped running after a few mins. There was a blockage between the filter and the engine. Cleared this but I’m not going to try and run it again until I change the filter and bleed the system through. But I can eliminate the electrical side and definately say it’s a fuel issue. I’ve ordered a new filter, (I thought I had a spare.)so I should be able to sort it on Friday hopefully. From talking to my friend it seems this sticky diesel is a growing problem. I’m wondering if you get the same issue with kerosene, or hydrogenated veg oil. I think I’m going to find an alternative to red because the quality is getting bad and it’s only going to get worse.
|
|
|
Post by on Feb 14, 2024 16:37:46 GMT
Day tank is the answer.
|
|
|
Post by kris on Feb 14, 2024 16:46:35 GMT
Yes my friend said he had to put a temporary tank in his boat. He is thinking of fitting it as a permanent second tank for winter. My main tank is only 100 liters or so, not massive. I didn’t find any signs of bug or sticky diesel. But I can’t remember if I changed the fuel filter this last year or the year before. I think an alternative fuel (kerosene. ) is the long term answer.
|
|
|
Post by on Feb 14, 2024 18:38:07 GMT
Another reason a day tank is good is it means you don't rely on the lift pump and if there are any leaks they show up as diesel coming out rather than air getting in.
Obviously if the tank is above the engine the effect is similar but a day tank with a proper glass bowl sediment trap on the outlet is a nice thing to have.
Keep a piece of copper pipe with the right fittings on so the glass bowl can be taken out when the BS inspector comes.
The best sensors are ears, eyes, nose and in the case of diesel the taste.
Someone who knows their shit will be able to taste if the diesel is wrong.
|
|
|
Post by on Feb 14, 2024 18:43:07 GMT
I think an alternative fuel (kerosene. ) is the long term answer. 28 second oil stinks. Also it is thin so something will have to be added for injector lubrication. Diesel engines are meant to run on Diesel. The clue is in the name.
|
|
|
Post by kris on Feb 14, 2024 18:58:14 GMT
I think an alternative fuel (kerosene. ) is the long term answer. 28 second oil stinks. Also it is thin so something will have to be added for injector lubrication. Diesel engines are meant to run on Diesel. The clue is in the name. Yes but if diesel gets to be problematic. When I lived in Ireland my friend who’s family farm I was staying on used to drive north and get four barrels of kerosene. ( much cheaper than in rep.) He ran his Toyota landcruiser and hilux on it. He’d been doing the same for years with no problems on modern common rail Diesel engines. Although he never went into Town on cattle market day 🙃. I’m sure since brexit the cross border trade is thriving. I am thinking of uprating the filter system I use though. I think you can get those twin filter water trap systems that are bsc compliant?
|
|
|
Post by Tony Dunkley on Feb 15, 2024 0:46:21 GMT
If it is fuel, then one would expect the engine to spin as fast as it ever did on the starter, but just not fire. However, prolonged spinning will deplete the battery a lot more than a typical engine start. So it is a question of how fast it spins on the starter compared with a similar engine on another boat with a serviceable battery. Thanks for the info about the charger. I am sure a Sterling battery charger will be a smart one, so it will drop to around 13.6ish volts when it thinks the battery is fully charged. That means it is at 14.1V, the charger thinks it is still not charged, but even so I think it should still start easily enough. The good sound advice, and the information, provided by Tony Brooks in his answers to the questions asked in this thread, however clear and correct his replies are, will almost certainly be completely lost on the mindless arsewipe at which the replies are directed. The engine in question is a Ruston 3YWA ex-generator engine - originally one of the auxiliaries in the BWB lower Trent (Dredgings) Discharger "TRENDIS", and it certainly WAS in good order when first installed botched into A41 [aka Medlock] the leaking, concrete-filled, and in reality, uninsurable wreck that the vacuous irresponsible owner is so stupidly proud of. The kindest, most generous way the entire installation can be described is that it's an unreliable cobbled-up mess that propels the boat at around the same sort of speed that's achievable by a ruptured duck, all whilst shaking itself to bits and destroying itself a little more every time it runs. The permanently overloaded engine - prop matched for a 3:1 Reduction ratio, but running through a badly misaligned free-standing 2:1 reduction PRM box that gets through drive plates in a matter of only a few hours of use - never achieves anywhere near full rated rpm, bounces around on its flimsy inadequate mountings almost as if it isn't bolted down at all, and produces clouds of black smoke underway. There are other problems/latent defects with the engine itself - the most serious being the loose crankshaft drive-end extension - but I've neither the time, nor the inclincation, to list the other faults/defects or to advise on the attention needed to prevent the inevitable consequences of continuing to ignore any or all of them, . . particularly the loose crankshaft drive-end extension, the significance and effect of which will be immediately apparent to any competent engineer familar with the Ruston 3YWA. Given that it's in the hands of one of the most objectionable, ungrateful, stupid and inept specimens it's ever been my misfortune to encounter, and the overall state of the engine and installation, . . NOT starting/running is probably the best way to leave it. On reading through the guff that mindless arsewipe kris posted here yesterday, it couldn't be clearer that pretty much everything I said in the above post is justified, accurate, and true. The necessity for a battery jump start pack - the very necessity that gave rise to the post that opened this thread/topic - has become, at least in whatever it is that kris uses instead of a mind, . . a fuel and fuel feed problem. This is an easy mistake to make of course, the symptoms and sources of both of those common engine starting and running problems being so similar, and so easily confused, . . particularly with engines fitted with fuel filtration equipment that's so well maintained and efficient that fuel blockages *occur BETWEEN the fuel filter and the engine (injector pumps). I can't wait to see what Mr Ineptitude comes up with today, . . will it be more of the same side-splitting mechanical/technical stuff, . . or will he try to divert attention away from his own sheer stupidity by digging up and re-posting some examples of the made-up mindless crap he's publicly directed at me over a considerable number of years -- as the objectionable little turd usually does after, once again, openly making a complete fool of himself on here. * See mindless arsewipe kris's post: < thunderboat.boards.net/post/388150/thread >
|
|
|
Post by Aloysius on Feb 15, 2024 6:50:15 GMT
You always go straight to the injector pump. Do you remember the guy with JP2 that wouldn't start? All that bollocks about bump tests and pump lobes or some such and how you couldn't trust the timing marks. And then he just fitted a new battery and away it went. Funny as fuck.
|
|
|
Post by kris on Feb 15, 2024 9:22:44 GMT
I stopped taking advice from Tony after the one time he was on the back of my boat and under his supervision. He Instructed me to set the timing in my engine incorrectly. This was rectified by talking to someone who knows what he’s talking about instead of out of his arse. I still think this was either a deliberate act by Tony or incompetence. After talking to other skippers that operated on the Trent when Tony was working. I’m beginning to think it’s incompetence, because after asking them about TD. The politest reply was that “he makes out he’s got more experience than he actually has.” In other words he’s full of shit and always has been. How are your boats doing Tony?
|
|
|
Post by Aloysius on Feb 15, 2024 10:30:54 GMT
And he was all set to go to the chap's boat and pull everything apart. I think he had a lucky escape.
Often, a mechanic will be leery of taking on a job someone else has begun; apart from the uncertainty of being presented with a pile of bits, and the grief of figuring out how it all goes back together, there is always the risk to one's reputation should things not go well.
All in all, you have to place a lot of trust in such a person. Not seeing someone for three weeks after they've pulled your engine from its mountings would be an unenviable position to be in.
|
|