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Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 30, 2016 18:13:18 GMT
My project for the next week is to tidy up the signwriting on my boat. It was done by the original owner and while he didn't do a bad job, it has deteriorated over time and I think I can bring it back to life a bit. Firstly, I'm going to re-paint the lettering, probably in white, maybe in cream. Then I'm going to re-do the shadowing, which as you can see, wasn't done too well. I'm not quite sure what to do here, it needs less shadowing although this will leave me with the problem of covering up the existing light green shadowing when I've finished. I've never tried signwriting before, and intend to use stencils and masking tape to break the back of it. Then I'm going to re-do the scrolls in red and yellow. Anyone here tried signwriting? Any hints, tips or cheats?
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Post by JohnV on Sept 30, 2016 18:34:59 GMT
No tips, no experience, ......... sometimes you have to step outside your comfort zone to tackle a job that needs to be done,
Sometimes you exceed your expectations, sometimes you don't, ..............genuinely, all the best
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Post by PaulG2 on Sept 30, 2016 19:06:21 GMT
You're going to need to paint over the light green shadowing, so you should do that first. Match your dark green background paint as close as you can and then plan on repainting all of the green inside the yellow lines. You should use lettering brushes to do all of the dark green fill-in around the letters, as this will give you experience with the tools, let you learn how the paint flows and so on.
Have you checked with a stencil company to see what they would charge you to make a pressure sensitive (sticky backed) thingy that you could just stick on? Some of those stick-ons are pretty nice and last quite a long time. I've no idea of the cost.
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Post by quaysider on Sept 30, 2016 19:46:14 GMT
You're going to need to paint over the light green shadowing, so you should do that first. Match your dark green background paint as close as you can and then plan on repainting all of the green inside the yellow lines. You should use lettering brushes to do all of the dark green fill-in around the letters, as this will give you experience with the tools, let you learn how the paint flows and so on. Have you checked with a stencil company to see what they would charge you to make a pressure sensitive (sticky backed) thingy that you could just stick on? Some of those stick-ons are pretty nice and last quite a long time. I've no idea of the cost. When I was looking for Ellis, I found this place which wasn't expensive www.vinylletteringonline.co.uk/lettering-designerCan't vouch for the end product yet as it's rolled up in the attic waiting for the boat!
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Post by Delta9 on Sept 30, 2016 20:18:19 GMT
I would think it is going to be hard to change the shadowing without it looking shite. If it were me I would either re-paint over what is already there not changing it, or re-do the whole panel within the yellow lines an re-write it.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 30, 2016 20:44:14 GMT
I would think it is going to be hard to change the shadowing without it looking shite. If it were me I would either re-paint over what is already there not changing it, or re-do the whole panel within the yellow lines an re-write it. Yes, I've wondered about this. Re-painting what is already there is probably the safest option. Ideally I would like to get it professionally signwritten but there's not the money in the budget for it. As an experiment I did re-paint the second "E" of "Desiree" about a year ago, and looking at the photo it does look better than any of the other letters, so I'll start off by re-doing the other letters in white, and then take it from there.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 30, 2016 20:46:53 GMT
You're going to need to paint over the light green shadowing, so you should do that first. Match your dark green background paint as close as you can and then plan on repainting all of the green inside the yellow lines. You should use lettering brushes to do all of the dark green fill-in around the letters, as this will give you experience with the tools, let you learn how the paint flows and so on. Have you checked with a stencil company to see what they would charge you to make a pressure sensitive (sticky backed) thingy that you could just stick on? Some of those stick-ons are pretty nice and last quite a long time. I've no idea of the cost. When I was looking for Ellis, I found this place which wasn't expensive www.vinylletteringonline.co.uk/lettering-designerCan't vouch for the end product yet as it's rolled up in the attic waiting for the boat! I had vinyl graphics on my truck, and while they looked ok, they did always look like vinyl graphics....
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Post by JohnV on Sept 30, 2016 21:02:46 GMT
One of the really good points about owning an old Humber Tanker and a elderly yoghurt pot is that nobody expects fancy paintwork or graphics ...... stick on vinyl is fine
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Post by Deleted on Sept 30, 2016 21:05:20 GMT
Apparently the superstructure of narrow boat Avebury (in Milton Keynes) is fully vinyl wrapped. It looks pretty good and I would guess is a lot cheaper than a 10-15K paint job. Maybe it's the way to go.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 30, 2016 21:12:02 GMT
Apparently the superstructure of narrow boat Avebury (in Milton Keynes) is fully vinyl wrapped. It looks pretty good and I would guess is a lot cheaper than a 10-15K paint job. Maybe it's the way to go. £20's worth of paint from Homebase is the way to go.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 30, 2016 21:17:53 GMT
Apparently the superstructure of narrow boat Avebury (in Milton Keynes) is fully vinyl wrapped. It looks pretty good and I would guess is a lot cheaper than a 10-15K paint job. Maybe it's the way to go. £20's worth of paint from Homebase is the way to go. You haven't seen how rubbish I am at painting. Having said that, vinyl wrapping must be quite fiddly. Maybe I'll practice on the missus...
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Post by PaulG2 on Oct 1, 2016 15:53:22 GMT
I would think it is going to be hard to change the shadowing without it looking shite. If it were me I would either re-paint over what is already there not changing it, or re-do the whole panel within the yellow lines an re-write it. Yes, I've wondered about this. Re-painting what is already there is probably the safest option. Ideally I would like to get it professionally signwritten but there's not the money in the budget for it. As an experiment I did re-paint the second "E" of "Desiree" about a year ago, and looking at the photo it does look better than any of the other letters, so I'll start off by re-doing the other letters in white, and then take it from there. That's a pretty good job on that "E". You're a bit off on the lower horizontal part of the "E", but that could have been corrected in the shadowing. If you can do the rest of your letters as well as you did that one "E", it should look quite nice when you're done.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Oct 1, 2016 16:15:49 GMT
Yes, I've wondered about this. Re-painting what is already there is probably the safest option. Ideally I would like to get it professionally signwritten but there's not the money in the budget for it. As an experiment I did re-paint the second "E" of "Desiree" about a year ago, and looking at the photo it does look better than any of the other letters, so I'll start off by re-doing the other letters in white, and then take it from there. That's a pretty good job on that "E". You're a bit off on the lower horizontal part of the "E", but that could have been corrected in the shadowing. If you can do the rest of your letters as well as you did that one "E", it should look quite nice when you're done. It was painted by the original owner, and I think it would be fair to say that it wasn't a professional job, I've been forced to go over the existing paintwork. One day I might get it professionally signwritten, but for now freshening it up is the most I can hope for. Incidentally, I've discovered that the shadowing is on the "wrong side", for some reason it should be to the left of the main text, not the right, and checking professional signwriting jobs, it nearly always does seem to be on the left. Again, I'm stuck with that and will simply go over the original shadowing. It rained for much of today, and then the sun came out, so I cracked on. The masking tape is still in place because I'm going to give it a second coat tomorrow morning, then get the tape off in the afternoon. Hope to start on "SHARDLOW" too. I'm going to then go over the scrolls, but in red and yellow.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Oct 2, 2016 11:39:04 GMT
Slowly getting there, that's all for today, going to let it all dry, lightly rub it down and second coat it tomorrow, then make any adjustments necessary and start on the shadowing.
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Post by JohnV on Oct 2, 2016 13:38:15 GMT
Bloody hell Iconoclast, that isn't half an improvement on "Desiree" .... you must be well chuffed
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