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Post by kris on Sept 24, 2020 15:54:21 GMT
So in summary... There isn't room to get a standard long socket in, so @gazza's proposal of a box spanner would be my number one choice, maybe heat assisted. A partially ground slimmer socket would be stronger possibly, can't recall who suggested that. A nut splitter - no room, hence my suggestion of a little slitting disk in a dremel to split the nut if all else fails. I don't see how screwing another nut down the thread would assist at all, possibly clean up the thread a bit, but to what end? It's not going to free up the stuck nut. What other options? Jim, you use the other nut as a locking nut on the ruined one. This would then allow one to remove the stud. Obviously the stud and nut would need replacing.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:00:23 GMT
The nut that's seized is more or less directly below the exhaust it's been subjected to salt etc. and rarely cleaned or oiled. The thread isn't wrecked, the nut has just seized onto it. It probably could be moved with the right tools but the risk is that the stud snaps instead. I really don't need that hassle so on balance my solution is better. We all pump oil out of our boat engines, what's wrong with doing the same with a bike? Warm the engine up, tie a rope to it from the handrail of my boat, lean it over to around 45 degrees towards the oil filling hole, sorted. Its just that, leaving the issue of leaning the bike over to one side for a mo, no matter how much you pump all the abrasive crud (and there is always some despite magnets and filters) that lives at the bottom of the sump will never be completely removed. Draining it in the manner Soichiro-san intended is the only way.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:02:59 GMT
So in summary... There isn't room to get a standard long socket in, so @gazza's proposal of a box spanner would be my number one choice, maybe heat assisted. A partially ground slimmer socket would be stronger possibly, can't recall who suggested that. A nut splitter - no room, hence my suggestion of a little slitting disk in a dremel to split the nut if all else fails. I don't see how screwing another nut down the thread would assist at all, possibly clean up the thread a bit, but to what end? It's not going to free up the stuck nut. What other options? Jim, you use the other nut as a locking nut on the ruined one. This would then allow one to remove the stud. Obviously the stud and nut would need replacing. There is no other nut in this situation .
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Post by kris on Sept 24, 2020 16:05:03 GMT
He took one nut off okay. Anyway I’m not going through that all again.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:07:22 GMT
Actually there is - the one on the other stud. And Kris' low-tech method really does work. But you still need a spanner made by a firm other than Cadbury's.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:08:47 GMT
I thought they were dome nuts.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:13:00 GMT
I thought they were dome nuts. That would be a first on a Honda. Although early 102s did use a screw with a pillar head to secure the front-end cap. Much better than the later cheese-head.
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Post by lollygagger on Sept 24, 2020 16:19:34 GMT
A nut locked on top won't help. You'd still have to undo via the existing nut which Ricco can't shift. If he could, either the nut would wind off the stud or bring the stud out with it.
Double nutting is for removing studs where the nuts are running freely.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:20:22 GMT
Yrrss it's funny you should say that I had assumed this was obvious but maybe not. The answer to the problem is to cut off the studs below the flange then remove the remaining part of the stud with the correct tool. Then replace studs and nuts with new. If you can't get a nut splitter or disc in there to take the nut off then there do not appear to be many other options.
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Post by kris on Sept 24, 2020 16:22:59 GMT
A nut locked on top won't help. You'd still have to undo via the existing nut which Ricco can't shift. If he could, either the nut would wind off the stud or bring the stud out with it. Double nutting is for removing studs where the nuts are running freely. It would work because when you have the second nut locked on, you loosen the stud by slightly tightening it. Then undoing it, I’ve done it a few times, but not with a chocolate spanner.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:27:03 GMT
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Post by kris on Sept 24, 2020 16:33:02 GMT
He’s in his coffin, until after dark.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:40:10 GMT
A nut locked on top won't help. You'd still have to undo via the existing nut which Ricco can't shift. If he could, either the nut would wind off the stud or bring the stud out with it. Double nutting is for removing studs where the nuts are running freely. Best solution: go to the bloody workshop where an expert with more kit than you can shake a stick at will smile knowingly and sort it in five minutes. But why take such a positive approach when a half-assed solution will do? Also. if this sodding nut is seized (or immovable with crap spanner, or so badly mashed it is unusable) how is Ricco going to nip it back up so that it serves its intended function - holding the effing exhaust on? And re-using a damaged part is in itself one of the dumbest (or desperate) things you could do. The nut has to come off. Nothing else will do.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 16:55:03 GMT
He’s in his coffin, until after dark.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 17:03:47 GMT
He’s in his coffin, until after dark. Cartman did it better 👍
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