Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 17:10:15 GMT
|
|
|
Post by lollygagger on Sept 24, 2020 17:14:22 GMT
A nut locked on top won't help. You'd still have to undo via the existing nut which Ricco can't shift. If he could, either the nut would wind off the stud or bring the stud out with it. Double nutting is for removing studs where the nuts are running freely. Best solution: go to the bloody workshop where an expert with more kit than you can shake a stick at will smile knowingly and sort it in five minutes. But why take such a positive approach when a half-assed solution will do? Also. if this sodding nut is seized (or immovable with crap spanner, or so badly mashed it is unusable) how is Ricco going to nip it back up so that it serves its intended function - holding the effing exhaust on? And re-using a damaged part is in itself one of the dumbest (or desperate) things you could do. The nut has to come off. Nothing else will do. You or I or many others would do what was neccessary to finish the job by not only getting the nut off and changing the oil but sorting the silly exhaust stud/nut/exhaust situation so that future oil changes would be a doddle. We see that as the clear sensible way forward, an investment in the future. Is this learned behaviour? Probably. Another is that things are often easier the hard way. Or do I mean harder the easy way.
|
|
|
Post by patty on Sept 24, 2020 17:40:53 GMT
So in summary... There isn't room to get a standard long socket in, so @gazza 's proposal of a box spanner would be my number one choice, maybe heat assisted. A partially ground slimmer socket would be stronger possibly, can't recall who suggested that. A nut splitter - no room, hence my suggestion of a little slitting disk in a dremel to split the nut if all else fails. I don't see how screwing another nut down the thread would assist at all, possibly clean up the thread a bit, but to what end? It's not going to free up the stuck nut. What other options? so has it taken 21 pages to get a summary... hmm not bad
|
|
|
Post by patty on Sept 24, 2020 17:41:44 GMT
He took one nut off okay. Anyway I’m not going through that all again. good here innit?
|
|
|
Post by patty on Sept 24, 2020 17:44:22 GMT
A nut locked on top won't help. You'd still have to undo via the existing nut which Ricco can't shift. If he could, either the nut would wind off the stud or bring the stud out with it. Double nutting is for removing studs where the nuts are running freely. It would work because when you have the second nut locked on, you loosen the stud by slightly tightening it. Then undoing it, I’ve done it a few times, but not with a chocolate spanner. well if it failed u could always eat it Just realised I've done a Foxy and multiple posts...oopsy
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 17:45:58 GMT
Best solution: go to the bloody workshop where an expert with more kit than you can shake a stick at will smile knowingly and sort it in five minutes. But why take such a positive approach when a half-assed solution will do? Also. if this sodding nut is seized (or immovable with crap spanner, or so badly mashed it is unusable) how is Ricco going to nip it back up so that it serves its intended function - holding the effing exhaust on? And re-using a damaged part is in itself one of the dumbest (or desperate) things you could do. The nut has to come off. Nothing else will do. You or I or many others would do what was neccessary to finish the job by not only getting the nut off and changing the oil but sorting the silly exhaust stud/nut/exhaust situation so that future oil changes would be a doddle. We see that as the clear sensible way forward, an investment in the future. Is this learned behaviour? Probably. Another is that things are often easier the hard way. Or do I mean harder the easy way. That's why you cut the stud just below the flange. Gets the exhaust removed and then you can extract the remains of the studs and replace them. All parts need replacing at the end of the day. The studs and the nuts because you don't know where the problem is. Cutting them off (you would only actually have to cut one because the other one has been de-nutted already) means you get the actual job done fast.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 17:52:48 GMT
You or I or many others would do what was neccessary to finish the job by not only getting the nut off and changing the oil but sorting the silly exhaust stud/nut/exhaust situation so that future oil changes would be a doddle. We see that as the clear sensible way forward, an investment in the future. Is this learned behaviour? Probably. Another is that things are often easier the hard way. Or do I mean harder the easy way. That's why you cut the stud just below the flange. Gets the exhaust removed and then you can extract the remains of the studs and replace them. All parts need replacing at the end of the day. The studs and the nuts because you don't know where the problem is. Cutting them off (you would only actually have to cut one because the other one has been de-nutted already) means you get the actual job done fast. Well, mon cher, attempting to extracting the stud is of an order or magnitude more perilous. But as suggested (by me) a few pages ago, having persuaded the nut to shuffle off, the stud thread could likely be re-dressed with a die and made to serve again.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 17:58:43 GMT
I like a challenge dear.
|
|
|
Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 24, 2020 18:01:10 GMT
The nut that's seized is more or less directly below the exhaust it's been subjected to salt etc. and rarely cleaned or oiled. The thread isn't wrecked, the nut has just seized onto it. It probably could be moved with the right tools but the risk is that the stud snaps instead. I really don't need that hassle so on balance my solution is better. We all pump oil out of our boat engines, what's wrong with doing the same with a bike? Warm the engine up, tie a rope to it from the handrail of my boat, lean it over to around 45 degrees towards the oil filling hole, sorted. Its just that, leaving the issue of leaning the bike over to one side for a mo, no matter how much you pump all the abrasive crud (and there is always some despite magnets and filters) that lives at the bottom of the sump will never be completely removed. Draining it in the manner Soichiro-san intended is the only way. I do take your point about the crud left behind but that's what almost everyone does with boat engines, they seem to last a while. Is it a potentially more damaging thing to do this with a small motor bike engine?
|
|
|
Post by kris on Sept 24, 2020 18:01:43 GMT
Persuade TD he’s not the font of all knowledge then.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 18:04:07 GMT
I thought this had already been established.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 18:05:34 GMT
Is it a potentially more damaging thing to do this with a small motor bike engine? Yes. The big end will be gone by the middle of next month.
|
|
|
Post by kris on Sept 24, 2020 18:05:54 GMT
I thought this had already been established. Not in his mind.
|
|
|
Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 24, 2020 18:44:35 GMT
Just over twenty one and a half pages back, . . near the top of page 2 of this thread, . . posted 16 September : < thunderboat.boards.net/post/252570/thread. > . . . . . . briefly explained the choice of sockets or spanners to get the job done, and how to go about it. Just one more item of equipment needed, . . someone who isn't too ham-fisted and has the ability to read and understand plain written English, . . which, with one or two notable exceptions, rules out most of TB's regular contributors.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 18:46:00 GMT
Its just that, leaving the issue of leaning the bike over to one side for a mo, no matter how much you pump all the abrasive crud (and there is always some despite magnets and filters) that lives at the bottom of the sump will never be completely removed. Draining it in the manner Soichiro-san intended is the only way. I do take your point about the crud left behind but that's what almost everyone does with boat engines, they seem to last a while. Is it a potentially more damaging thing to do this with a small motor bike engine? Is it bad to leave it there? It sure isn't good, but far more importantly it isn't necessary. The reason why most boaters pump it out through the filler hole is necessity - they don't have a pump fitted to the sump plug hole and, lets be honest, the sump plug isn't exactly easily accessible. Also tipping the boat over isn't generally regarded as a good move. Certainly the amount of oil in the average bike sump is proportionately less than in your average boat engine. It seems reasonable to assume it is therefore more likely that crud will be picked up by the oil pump. Is nice clean oil betterer than new oil mixed with old shit? I'd go with 'yes'. There is a satisfaction to be found in doing something the right way that it seems you are not familiar with. BTW, I can't wait for the report concerning the 'oil spinner' you mention. Are the fasteners securing the cover looking a tad used, by any chance?
|
|