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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 19:02:04 GMT
Just over twenty one and a half pages back, . . near the top of page 2 of this thread, . . posted 16 September : < thunderboat.boards.net/post/252570/thread. > . . . . . . briefly explains the choice of sockets or spanners to get the job done, and how to go about it. Just one more item of equipment needed, . . someone who isn't too ham-fisted and has the ability to read and understand plain written English, . . which, with one or two notable exceptions, rules out most of TB's regular contributors. Have you seen the Clinton Cool exhaust flange ? I know this sounds a bit rude but it's not meant to be. Without photos I don't believe anyone can comment accurately. For the record the photo I put up earlier was just a random Google image and I acknowledged at the time that it probably wasn't the same as the one ricco has but was also probably a similar arrangement re nut and stud. Highly probable that the access to the nuts was different to the one in real life. As the actress said to the bishop.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 19:08:37 GMT
But the owner of this modern classic stated it was the same as the pic...
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Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 24, 2020 19:12:08 GMT
Its just that, leaving the issue of leaning the bike over to one side for a mo, no matter how much you pump all the abrasive crud (and there is always some despite magnets and filters) that lives at the bottom of the sump will never be completely removed. Draining it in the manner Soichiro-san intended is the only way. I do take your point about the crud left behind but that's what almost everyone does with boat engines, they seem to last a while. Is it a potentially more damaging thing to do this with a small motor bike engine? Most boat engines have full-flow oil filters in the pump fed lubrication systems, . . most motorbike engines of the size and vintage of that thing of yours don't. On the other hand, splash lubrication, which your bike engine probably has, doesn't have a pump to suck all the muck and swarf up from the bottom of the crankcase. Whichever way you look at it, some of the old oil plus a load of muck left in any engine after an oil change can never be rated as ideal.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 24, 2020 19:18:50 GMT
But the owner of this modern classic stated it was the same as the pic... Are you alright ? That's the third or fourth sensible post you've made today !
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 19:20:21 GMT
I do take your point about the crud left behind but that's what almost everyone does with boat engines, they seem to last a while. Is it a potentially more damaging thing to do this with a small motor bike engine? Most boat engines have full-flow oil filters in the lubrication systems, . . most motorbike engines of the size and vintage of that thing of yours don't. On the other hand, splash lubrication doesn't have a pump to suck all the muck and swarf up from the bottom of the crankcase. Whichever way you look at it, some of the old oil plus a load of muck left in any engine after an oil change can never be rated as ideal. 'That vintage' is a current model. There is a centrifugal oil filter.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 24, 2020 19:24:09 GMT
Most boat engines have full-flow oil filters in the lubrication systems, . . most motorbike engines of the size and vintage of that thing of yours don't. On the other hand, splash lubrication doesn't have a pump to suck all the muck and swarf up from the bottom of the crankcase. Whichever way you look at it, some of the old oil plus a load of muck left in any engine after an oil change can never be rated as ideal. 'That vintage' is a current model. There is a centrifugal oil filter. Blimey, . . . . another one !
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 19:25:04 GMT
I do take your point about the crud left behind but that's what almost everyone does with boat engines, they seem to last a while. Is it a potentially more damaging thing to do this with a small motor bike engine? Most boat engines have full-flow oil filters in the lubrication systems, . . most motorbike engines of the size and vintage of that thing of yours don't. On the other hand, splash lubrication doesn't have a pump to suck all the muck and swarf up from the bottom of the crankcase. Whichever way you look at it, some of the old oil plus a load of muck left in any engine after an oil change can never be rated as ideal. Many Small Honda motorcycle fourstrokes have a gauze filter in the bottom of the crankcase and a centrifugal oil filter driven by the oil pump - very effective at fetching the shite out of the oil; so effective that If they are left unchecked they end up starving the top end of oil due to the compacted shit that builds up in em..... CG 125 manual for reference 👍 die-kleinkraftrad-ig.de/wissensdatenbank/reparaturanleitungcg125.pdfClinton Cool Grom has a similar filter.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 20:03:57 GMT
But the owner of this modern classic stated it was the same as the pic... Awfully sorry old chap but he didn't Page 5 ... That picture further up is correct apart from the nuts being much deeper than those shown. This is why I was wondering about dome nuts perhaps being fitted in this instance. Flanged ones.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 24, 2020 20:13:08 GMT
But the owner of this modern classic stated it was the same as the pic... Awfully sorry old chap but he didn't Page 5 ... That picture further up is correct apart from the nuts being much deeper than those shown. This is why I was wondering about dome nuts perhaps being fitted in this instance. Flanged ones. Already covered on page 1 of this thread : < thunderboat.boards.net/post/252554/thread >
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 20:17:06 GMT
Yes, so not the same as the ones in the picture I randomly picked up from Google. Another post in page 1 was this Just general heating on the whole lot might loosen it up. It's difficult to visualise it. Still no photo so nobody actually knows Scottish Football Association aka SFA ETA sorry for the complicated reference I meant Sweet Fuck All. Without any photographic evidence we have no idea that the problem Clinton Cool claims to have been presented with actually exists. He may have had the motorcycle on his back deck for considerably more than the 3 week protocol but still the issues were not resolved. It's probably best to worry about it.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 24, 2020 20:45:58 GMT
Yes, so not the same as the ones in the picture I randomly picked up from Google. Another post in page 1 was this Just general heating on the whole lot might loosen it up. It's difficult to visualise it. Still no photo so nobody actually knows Scottish Football Association aka SFA ETA sorry for the complicated reference I meant Sweet Fuck All. Without any photographic evidence we have no idea that the problem Clinton Cool claims to have been presented with actually exists. He may have had the motorcycle on his back deck for considerably more than the 3 week protocol but still the issues were not resolved. It's probably best to worry about it. In circumstances as described it's always best to get the nut as hot as you can as quickly as you can, so it expands at a greater rate than the stud. Heating more slowly in the general area of the stud would very likely be almost as effective though, . . because the cylinder barrel casting will draw heat out of the stud more quickly than out of the nut. If the procedure I outlined on page 2 had been tried - methodically, patiently and without excessive force - the second nut would probably have come free without too much trouble, . . not least because the heat that got into the stud whilst the nut was being warmed up would expand the stud lengthways by a small amount and take some of the tension off it before any attempt was made to move the nut.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 21:29:19 GMT
Yes, so not the same as the ones in the picture I randomly picked up from Google. Another post in page 1 was this Still no photo so nobody actually knows Scottish Football Association aka SFA ETA sorry for the complicated reference I meant Sweet Fuck All. Without any photographic evidence we have no idea that the problem Clinton Cool claims to have been presented with actually exists. He may have had the motorcycle on his back deck for considerably more than the 3 week protocol but still the issues were not resolved. It's probably best to worry about it. In circumstances as described it's always best to get the nut as hot as you can as quickly as you can, so it expands at a greater rate than the stud. Heating more slowly in the general area of the stud would very likely be almost as effective though, . . because the cylinder block casting will draw heat out of the stud more quickly than out of the nut. If the procedure I outlined on page 2 had been tried - methodically, patiently and without excessive force - the second nut would probably have come free without too much trouble, . . not least because the heat that got into the stud whilst the nut was being warmed up would expand the stud lengthways by a small amount and take some of the tension off it before any attempt was made to move the nut. I'd lend you my blowtorch but you'll have to come and get it. In any case winding the nut back the way it came will demonstrate its not seized.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 21:50:22 GMT
Actually another way to deal with it is to tighten the offending nut back up, wind a die over the thread as far as it will go, then unwind the poxy nut. The fatal flaw is that Ricco hasn't got a die. Or a spanner worth the name. To the tune of 'Right said Fred': Shop shop shop, shoppy shoppy shop shop, shop shop shop shop shop shop, shop shop, shop, shop a cup of tea... PS get them to loosen the spinner cover or whatever it is while ye is at it.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2020 21:59:08 GMT
I hope this thread doesn't make 22 pages... How do you like them apples?
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Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 25, 2020 0:04:12 GMT
In circumstances as described it's always best to get the nut as hot as you can as quickly as you can, so it expands at a greater rate than the stud. Heating more slowly in the general area of the stud would very likely be almost as effective though, . . because the cylinder block casting will draw heat out of the stud more quickly than out of the nut. If the procedure I outlined on page 2 had been tried - methodically, patiently and without excessive force - the second nut would probably have come free without too much trouble, . . not least because the heat that got into the stud whilst the nut was being warmed up would expand the stud lengthways by a small amount and take some of the tension off it before any attempt was made to move the nut. . . . . . . . . . . In any case winding the nut back the way it came will demonstrate its not seized. Nothing was said in the page 2 post you've mentioned about 'winding' any nut 'back the way it came'. To say 'winding' implies many turns and a lot of movement, but to free corroded or seized threads and minimize the risk of shearing the stud or bolt it is essential to begin with very tiny back and forth movements. It's common, and very effective, practice to make the initial movement/rotation of a seized (right-hand thread) bolt, stud, or nut in a clockwise/right-hand/tightening direction to break the grip of the corrosion or whatever else is stopping it from turning, . . but it has to be a very tiny movement, no more than 30 degrees, or half a flat at the absolute most, and that only after warming everything up to expand the stud or bolt lengthways and relieve a little of the tension in it.
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